Printed October 29, 2026
Medieval Persian Isfanakh bi-Laban (Spinach in Yogurt Sauce)
From the golden age of Baghdad's Abbasid court, this vibrant dish combines wilted greens with tangy yogurt and warm spices—a recipe that traveled the Silk Road and influenced cuisines from Persia to India.
Ingredients
- 600g fresh spinach, thoroughly washed
- 500g plain whole milk yogurt
- 3 tablespoons chickpea flour (besan)
- 4 cloves garlic, minced
- 1 medium onion, finely chopped
- 60ml ghee or clarified butter
- 1 teaspoon ground coriander
- 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
- 1/4 teaspoon saffron threads, crumbled
- 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
- Salt to taste
- 2 tablespoons fresh mint leaves, chopped
- 1 tablespoon rose water
Preparation
This elegant preparation comes from the 13th-century cookbook Kitab al-Tabikh (Book of Dishes), compiled in Baghdad during a period when Islamic civilization was at its cultural and scientific zenith. The recipe showcases the medieval Islamic world's mastery of balancing flavors and the sophisticated use of dairy in savory cooking.
During the Abbasid Caliphate, dishes like this would have been served at elaborate banquets where poets recited verses between courses and physicians discussed the humoral properties of each ingredient. Spinach, introduced to the region from Persia, was considered particularly healthful and appeared in numerous court recipes.
Preparation
- Begin by preparing the yogurt sauce: whisk together the yogurt and chickpea flour in a bowl until completely smooth with no lumps remaining. Set aside at room temperature.
- Heat half the ghee in a large, deep pan over medium heat. Add the chopped onion and cook gently for 8-10 minutes until golden and softened.
- Add the minced garlic, ground coriander, cinnamon, crumbled saffron, and black pepper. Stir constantly for about one minute until the spices release their fragrance.
- Add the spinach in batches, allowing each addition to wilt before adding more. Once all the spinach is wilted, cook for an additional 3-4 minutes to release excess moisture.
- Reduce the heat to low. Gradually add the yogurt mixture to the pan, stirring constantly to prevent curdling. The chickpea flour will help stabilize the yogurt during cooking.
- Continue cooking over low heat, stirring frequently, for 10-15 minutes. The sauce should thicken and the raw flour taste should cook out completely.
- Season with salt to taste and stir in the rose water. The floral note is characteristic of medieval Persian cooking.
- In a small pan, heat the remaining ghee until shimmering. Add the chopped mint and let it sizzle for 30 seconds, then immediately pour this fragrant oil over the finished dish.
Serving Suggestion: This dish was traditionally served with flatbread or over rice, often as part of a larger spread of hot and cold dishes. The medieval diners would have appreciated both its flavor and its supposed cooling properties according to humoral medicine.
Historical Note: Rose water appears in countless medieval Islamic recipes and was produced in vast quantities in cities like Shiraz. Its use in savory dishes may seem unusual today, but it was as common then as vanilla is in modern Western desserts.
