Preparation

There's something deeply satisfying about black garlic—those sweet, molasses-like cloves that started life as sharp white bulbs before spending weeks fermenting in controlled heat. Pair that with koji, the rice inoculated with Aspergillus oryzae that forms the backbone of miso, sake, and soy sauce, and you have a glaze that's layered with funky, sweet, and savory notes that conventional cooking just can't replicate.

Preparation

1. Pat the chicken wings completely dry with paper towels. This is crucial for crispy skin. Toss them with the cornstarch and a generous pinch of salt until evenly coated.
2. Heat a large skillet or wok over medium-high heat and add the neutral oil. Working in batches if necessary, cook the wings until golden brown and crispy on all sides, about 12-15 minutes total. Remove and set aside.
3. In a small bowl, combine the koji, black garlic paste, brown sugar, soy sauce, fish sauce, rice vinegar, and gochugaru. Whisk until the sugar dissolves and the mixture is relatively smooth (some texture from the koji is fine).
4. Pour off most of the fat from the skillet, leaving about a tablespoon. Reduce heat to medium and add the koji-garlic mixture. Cook, stirring constantly, for 2-3 minutes until it bubbles and thickens into a glaze.
5. Return the wings to the skillet and toss vigorously to coat every surface with the sticky, funky glaze. Cook for another minute to let the glaze set.
6. Transfer to a serving plate and garnish with green onions and sesame seeds. Serve immediately while the wings are hot and the glaze is at peak glossiness.

The Funky Factor

The koji brings enzymatic sweetness and a gentle fermented tang, while black garlic contributes an almost balsamic depth. Together, they create a complexity that keeps you reaching for another wing, trying to identify all the layers. If you can't find rice koji, amazake (a sweet fermented rice drink) works as a substitute, though it will be slightly less funky and more straightforwardly sweet.