Preparation

Frumenty (also furmenty, fromenty) appeared at Anglo-Saxon tables centuries before the Norman Conquest and remained popular through the Tudor era. Made from hulled wheat slowly simmered until the grains burst, it occupied a middle ground between porridge and stew, equally appropriate for breakfast or dinner.

The dish's versatility made it beloved across social classes. Peasants ate it plain with milk; the wealthy enriched it with eggs, saffron, and meat. Christmas frumenty became traditional, often made with venison from the season's hunting and flavored with precious imported spices.

Preparation

1. The night before, place wheat berries in a bowl and cover with water by 2 inches. Soak overnight.
2. Drain the wheat and place in a large, heavy pot with the stock. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a very gentle simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 2-3 hours until the grains burst and become creamy. Add water if needed to prevent sticking.
3. Meanwhile, season the venison with salt and pepper. In a skillet, brown the meat in butter over high heat until caramelized. Set aside.
4. When the wheat has cooked down to a thick, porridge-like consistency, stir in the milk and saffron. Continue cooking gently for 30 minutes.
5. Add the browned venison and mace. Simmer another 15 minutes until the meat is tender.
6. In a small bowl, whisk the egg yolks with a ladleful of the hot frumenty. Remove the pot from heat and stir the egg mixture back in, stirring constantly to prevent curdling.
7. The frumenty should be thick but pourable, with a golden hue from saffron and eggs. Season with additional salt and pepper to taste.

Serve in bowls as a main dish. The texture resembles a very thick risotto or congee, with bursts of tender grain and savory meat throughout. This is comfort food from a millennium ago, surprisingly satisfying to modern palates seeking something substantial and warming.